Things To Know Before You Go to Siberia

Visas
All travelers to Russia need a visa. The conventional tourist visa—a Soviet holdover—is quite restrictive, since it requires you to book accommodation through a registered travel agency for each night of your stay. A business visa is more flexible and quite easy to arrange: Several companies will process the paperwork or simply issue the required invitation for about $75. (I got mine via www.gotorussia.com.)

Tickets and Other Hassles
A good rule of thumb for traveling in Russia: The more you plan ahead (and pay), the less you'll wait. Many companies offer Trans-Sib package tours, often at considerable markup (a second-class Moscow-Vladivostok ticket costs less than $500). The Traveller's Guesthouse in Moscow will arrange custom Siberian itineraries for a modest markup, with the option of "homestay" accommodation at stopovers. This can be hit or miss—but so are Siberian hotels. Alternatively, you can check timetables and even order tickets at www.poezda.net.

A few international airlines, notably British Airways, now operate from Moscow's Domodedovo Airport, which is easily reached by train and far less dreadful than Sheremetevo.

Language
Do yourself a huge favor and learn to speak—and read—a few words of Russian beforehand. You're not likely to encounter many English speakers, or signs. Russian in 10 Minutes a Day is a good intro to the written language; the Pimsleur language tapes are excellent for pronunciation.