Things To Know Before You Go

Our tour of Montreal takes us through the street eateries of ethnic neighborhoods to the haute cuisine of the some of the finest restaurants in North America; to the haunts and hideaways of native author Mordecai Richler; and to the childhood memories of author Gary Shteyngart, who, after his family immigrated to New York from Russia in the 1970s, took a visit and was mightily impressed at "how sleek and vaguely European it was, a rational alternative to the madness and unbridled Americanness of New York."

Getting there: From the northeastern coast of the United States, it is an easy drive to Montreal. Continental U.S. highways link directly with Canadian counterparts along the border at numerous points. From Boston it is about a four-and-a-half-hour drive; from New York about six hours. During the summer and on holiday weekends, waits of 30 minutes or more are not uncommon at the major U.S.-Canadian border crossings. Amtrak has service from New York (10 hours) and Chicago (16 hours). Contact Amtrak for complete information and current prices. Flying is generally the easiest option, and we used Air Canada as our carrier, but many major airlines serve Dorval International Airport, and they can be found and booked on Expedia.

Entry formalities: Visitors from any country except the United States must carry a valid passport. American citizens need only provide proof of citizenship and a piece of photo identification. Visas are required for visitors from some countries. As for driving, a U.S. driver's license is accepted. If entering by car, know that vehicles that look suspiciously full are likely to be searched.

Where to stay: Good Web sites listing the vast array of accommodations in Montreal include Montreal Hotels and Accommodations Plus and Montreal Hotels # 1.

Books: Anything by Mordecai Richler, of course. The three most popular guide books are Fodor's 2003 Montreal and Quebec, Access Montreal & Quebec City, and Frommer's Montreal & Quebec City 2003, by Herbert Bailey Livesey.

Films: The strong U.S. dollar, a thriving film community, and proximity to New York have made Montreal a popular setting for major motion pictures, and over 500 have been filmed there. 1974's Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz with Richard Dreyfuss, based on the Mordecai Richler novel, is a must-see. Others shot on location in Montreal include Sergio Leone's epic Once Upon a Time in America, Terry Gilliam's 12 Monkeys, Batman and Robin, Wait Until Dark, and Jesus of Montreal, directed by Quebec's Denys Arcand.

General information: For more information on the province of Quebec, its peoples, culture, and history, check out the official government Web site.

The official tourism site for Quebec, which includes information on special events, e-zines with vacation suggestions and packages, and pages where you can book accommodations and flights to Montreal, is bonjourquebec.

The Canadian Center for Architecture was on our itinerary.

Promotional considerations: Air transportation was provided at a significant discount by Air Canada, and the Canadian Tourism Commission picked up the tab.

Marie José Pinsonnault at Tourisme Montréal supplied heroic help with the itinerary planning and logistics.

Bard Nordby, the media relations manager for Tourisme Québec, supported this project with his many ideas, insights, contacts, and planning assistance.

The team stayed at the Hôtel Gault Montréal and the Ritz Carlton at a generous discount, and the bill was picked up by Tourisme Québec.

Dinners were provided by Boris Bistro, Area (1429 Amherst Street; phone 514-890-6691), and Toqué (3842 St-Denis Street; phone: 514-499-2084), as well as Tourisme Montréal.

Lunches were provided by Café Méliès (3530 St Laurent Blvd.; phone: 514-847-9218), Schwartz's Hebrew Delicatessen (3895 St-Laurent Blvd.; phone: 514-842-4813), and Tourisme Montréal.

Eagle Creek supplied travel bags and accessories for the team.

Travel clothing was provided by Ex Officio.