Things To Know Before You Go

You won't find the Outlaw Trail on your road map because it isn't a road—by design. Robert LeRoy Parker (Butch Cassidy), Harry Longabaugh (the Sundance Kid), Tom McCarty, Elza Lay, the James brothers, and the other bank robbers, horse thieves, cattle rustlers, and train hijackers who pestered the advocates of progress in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries weren't interested in the fastest way to get from Jackson, Wyo., to El Paso, Texas, or from Telluride, Colo., to Green River, Wyo. They followed the off-the-beaten-path track for two reasons: They didn't want to get caught, and there really wasn't much of a beaten track to follow.

The Outlaw Trail that stretches from Canada to Mexico through the intermountain region of Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico followed a network of "dim trails and widely spaced water holes" that provided sanctuary for cowboys "who did not wish to be interviewed by the law" in the words of Charles Kelly's 1938 book The Outlaw Trail. Today, much—though not all—of that territory is accessible by car or, in some cases, four-wheel drive; a few spots, including the notorious Robber's Roost in southeastern Utah, are still difficult to reach. But for the diligent student of outlaw history who possesses patience, persistence, and initiative, following in the hoof prints of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid is possible.

Getting there: The U.S. interstate highway system can take you within a day's drive of almost any part of the Outlaw Trail. If you're flying, international airports in either Salt Lake City or Denver are central to the lengthy trans-state route. Check out Expedia for fares and schedules.

When to go: Traveling in the Western states is possible almost year-round if you stick to the highways, but getting off-track is difficult in the winter months—late October to March—and summertime crowds in canyon country can interfere with your mission. What travel agents call "shoulder season"—April to June and September to October—is probably best.

Where to stay: In this modern age of franchise convenience, you'll find familiar signposts everywhere. Best Western (1-800-780-7234) provides comfortable and consistent lodging in most areas on the trail; other chains usually have a presence as well. Smaller towns often provide the most interesting lodging experiences, such as the historic Palace Hotel in Silver City, N.M. (915-779-7700).

As you get closer to the real outlaw hideaways, the best available lodgings tend to be working cattle ranches (some might improperly call them "dude ranches"), such as the Willow Creek Ranch in Kaycee, Wyo. (307-738-2294), which hosted our team during the first part of their journey, and the WS Cattle Ranch in Alma, N.M. (505-539-2513).

Books: , by Charles Kelly. First published in 1938 and revised in 1959, Kelly's book includes most of the tall tales and true stories, as well as the first and probably most authentic map of the Outlaw Trail.

The Outlaw Trail: A Journey Though Time, by Robert Redford. The actor who portrayed the Sundance Kid followed the trail with eight companions, mainly on horseback, as part of a National Geographic project in 1976. The large-format book was published in 1978, with photography by Jonathan Blair. It's currently out of print but may be available in libraries.

, by Robert Patterson. A well-researched and detail-oriented biography of R. L. Parker and his alleged return to the United States following the famous Bolivian shootout.

In Search of Butch Cassidy, by Larry Pointer. The first book to fully explore the question of Butch's alleged return from Bolivia and his reincarnation as a Spokane machinist named William T. Phillips. Very convincing.

When it comes to guidebooks, Moon Handbooks, published by Avalon Travel, remain the most consistent and informative guides to the Western states, especially for out-of-the-way places. Their book , by Bill Weir and W. C. McRae, was especially helpful. Compass American Guides, published by Fodor's Travel, also cover the region well; we used Wyoming, by Nathaniel Burt.

Movies: (1969), directed by George Roy Hill and written by William Goldman, starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford in the title roles is still a sunny, affable classic with great dialogue and photography throughout.

(1969), directed by Sam Peckinpah is the dark reverse of Hill's movie, although it is based on the same story (with liberal amounts of Billy the Kid thrown in). William Holden, Robert Ryan, Ernest Borgnine, Warren Oates, and many other aging stars lend a sense of gravitas to this terrific movie, which culminates in one of the bloodiest shootouts in cinema history.

Rancho Notorious (1952), directed by Fritz Lang. What's a German Expressionist like Lang doing in Hollywood? Making Westerns, of course. With Marlene Dietrich running the Chuck-a-Luck Ranch, a parody of the Hole-in-the-Wall, where outlaws are made to feel welcome, very welcome indeed. Camp and fun, with a bit of "hate, murder, and revenge" thrown in.