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Obama's Fashion Faux Pas

Slate language columnist and sometime "XX Factor" menswear correspondent Jesse Sheidlower tipped me off to the biggest untold fashion story of Inauguration Day: Obama's outfit for the balls was all wrong! He explains the details here:

While the dress new first lady Michelle Obama wore to the inauguration balls—"a fluffy, many-layered gown by a 26-year-old designer named Jason Wu"—got a typical amount of press attention, President Obama's attire was barely mentioned. Which is probably a good thing because it was, by the standards of men's formal dress, simply incorrect.

Obama was wearing a white bow tie and a tuxedo with a notch collar. There are many things wrong with this. First, the inaugural balls were not white-tie but black-tie events, and dressing more formally than required is a faux pas. Second, if Obama wanted to wear white tie, he should have done it right. White tie, or men's formal dress (traditionally black tie is known as "informal"; there's no such thing as "semi-formal"), is not simply a tuxedo worn with a white tie. It consists of a tailcoat, not a tuxedo jacket, and it is worn with a wing-collar shirt with a front of cotton piqué. The trousers traditionally have double piping on the side seam. Black tie consists of a tuxedo jacket (which traditionally has peak, not notch, lapels with satin or grosgrain facing) worn with a black bow tie and a pleated straight-collar shirt. The trousers have a single wide piping on the side seam.

Of course, it has become popular among prominent men to scramble formalwear conventions completely. It is now very common to see wing-collar shirts with tuxedos, or—even worse—that Oscar-season atrocity: A collarless shirt paired with a dark suit and called "black tie." But it's too bad the president couldn't have started off his term in a more appropriate outfit. He's proved that he can look fantastic in proper formal dress, as he'll need to do for state dinners, and it would have been nice to see how elegant he looked in a proper tuxedo.