Why I hate s'mores.

Notes from the wilderness.
July 20 2006 7:36 PM

I Can't Take It Any S'more!

America's most abominable dessert.

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Of course, these fancy incarnations defeat the original point of s'mores, which is that they're easy-to-make, guaranteed nostalgia-inducers, well within the reach of any parent's budget. Others may disagree, but I suspect that most us don't eat them for the taste. We eat them to relive our first s'mores experience, back when our taste buds were so rosy new that any sugar was ecstasy; back when our parents were the age we are now … and younger. S'mores take us back in time. You don't have to like them to love them.

Liesl Schillinger is a New York-based arts writer.