Recovering my belongings from New Orleans.

Notes from different corners of the world.
Oct. 21 2005 6:21 AM

My Year of Hurricanes

A return to moldy New Orleans, and an unexpected death.

This article is part of an ongoing series by Blake Bailey, a New Orleans resident who lost everything in Hurricane Katrina. Click here to read more of his dispatches.

Since moving back to Gainesville, Fla., a couple weeks ago, my wife and baby daughter and I have been living in one of the myriad apartment complexes ("Windmeadows") in this university town. Our one-bedroom unit is paid through November, the gift of a kind friend, and we're lucky to have it. On the other hand, it does remind us of a certain ill-favored dwelling from our salad days here in Gainesville—a place called Arbor Park, where dogs howled through vaporous walls and oafs trolled around blasting their car stereos—and so we miss, all the more, our two-month sojourn as homeowners in New Orleans. Was it all a dream? Or is this the dream? Certainly the landscape would suggest as much: a stark de Chirico painting of parking lots and sidewalks and strip malls. And why is the water in that fountain dyed turquoise?

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Driving down from Norman, Okla., I'd stopped in New Orleans to see how much we could salvage from our flooded house in suburban Gentilly; the idea was to return the following week with a suitable rental truck. I figured a 9-foot cargo van would just about cover it and called a U-Haul dealer once I got to Gainesville.

"We don't rent to New Orleans," said the folksy rustic on the phone. "No place to put it."

" 'Put it'? I'm not sure I—"

"No place to put it! You know, drop it off! ... You know?"

At length I explained that I'd actually be driving round trip, and once we got that straight, he confessed that his own U-Haul dealership was in the town of Orange, about 40 miles south of Gainesville. I should have just hung up and found a better location, but by then our long vaudevillian colloquy had worn me down. Besides, the man seemed to sympathize with my refugee status and offered what seemed a good deal: $29.95 a day!

Our baby daughter seems undaunted by our bleak new apartment 
Click on image to enlarge.
Our baby daughter seems undaunted by our bleak new apartment

The following Monday, then, bright and early (though not so early that my wife wasn't late for work when it was all over), we arrived in Orange to collect the van. There were two problems: 1) there was no van, and 2) the price for the much-larger truck they proposed to give me was, forsooth, $29.95 a day—plus $960 for mileage. I left in a huff, sans truck, and as we drove back to Gainesville the baby began to cry. And cry. For my part, I suddenly wished (not for the first time in these last six weeks) that I were dead. An hour or so later, though, I managed to rent a proper van from Enterprise ($99 a day, unlimited mileage) and felt somewhat better.

I arrived in New Orleans around 5:30 the next evening and proceeded to my friend Alfred's house in the Uptown section of the city. Alfred, a lawyer, was still at his temporary office in Baton Rouge and wouldn't be home for a couple hours. In the meantime, his domestic staff (two nannies, two maids) stood laughing on Octavia Street outside Alfred's wrought-iron security gate. As I greeted them I felt an icy gust of air blasting from the wide-open front door across the lawn; the AC compressors roared and roared. This, I suppose, was the women's way of celebrating the restoration of power to this affluent neighborhood, while their own apartments in very different parts of the city remained dark and unlivable. I paused to survey the immaculate edifice of Alfred's mansion: not a shingle missing that I could see, much less a grimy 6-foot waterline and rampant mold inside and out. Due, no doubt, to a peculiar defect in my own nature, the sight of such houses (especially when they belong to old friends) excites a certain unsavory ambivalence.

Nightlife is beginning to return to normal in New Orleans
Click on image to enlarge.
Nightlife is beginning to return to normal in New Orleans

That night Alfred and I had dinner at Herbsaint on St. Charles Avenue, perhaps the swankiest of the few reopened restaurants in town. The place was packed with the intrepid gentry who'd returned to the city early and damn the torpedoes. We were all Hemingway liberating the Ritz in occupied Paris. We poured wine for each other and swapped war stories. Alfred told me he'd evacuated to his native North Carolina, preceded in a plane by his wife and three daughters; his main reason for returning to New Orleans now—there wasn't much business to conduct in Baton Rouge, truth be known—was to collect his domestic staff ("noblesse oblige"). Later we drove to a dive bar called the Saint in the Lower Garden District, where a wispy tattooed bartender kept reminding everybody of the midnight curfew and finally had to turn out the lights. It was sort of fun driving back in the cargo van—more than a little squiffy—through dark, deserted, debris-filled streets.

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