Which machines whip up the best ice cream?

How to be the best consumer you can be.
June 28 2005 7:14 AM

The Inside Scoop

Which machines whip up the best ice cream?

(Continued from Page 2)

Ease of Use: 6.5
Time to Completion: 7
Elegance: 4
Final Product: Philly, 8; French, 8
Total Philly: 25.5
Total French: 25.5

KitchenAid Mixer, Plus Gel Canister Attachment   
Attachment: $79.99 on Amazon.com, Mixer: $139.99


If you already own a KitchenAid Stand Mixer, you can purchase a special gel canister bowl for making ice cream. This makes a nice alternative to the Cuisinart. The advantage over the Cuisinart is the adjustable speed, allowing you to whip up a lighter, more aerated batter; and the mixer makes the initial batter-making—whipping the eggs into the sugar, then mixing in milk and cream—that much easier. Again, gel-canister technology produces a pretty sturdy Philadelphia, and an adequate French. I do think aerating the batter during freezing made this a lighter, slightly yummier ice cream—and you get double the capacity of the Cuisinart. Still, the price for these attachments—a canister, a plastic paddle—strikes me as absurdly high.

Ease of Use: 7
Time to Completion: 7
Elegance: In conjunction with the beautiful mixer, an 8.
Final Product: Philly, 8; French, 5
Total Philly: 30
Total French: 27

Cuisinart ICE 50BC Supreme
$246.51 on Amazon.com

Cuisinart recently added a compressor model to its ice-cream offerings, and they've cut some corners to keep the price down. The big one: Where most compressors take about 20 to 30 minutes to brew up ice cream, the ICE 50BC is supposed to take 30 to 40 minutes (or more). I was wary that a longer freezing time could result in larger ice crystals, which are more detectable to the tongue, thus giving your ice cream a grittier bite. But I was pleasantly surprised, as were my tasters. I found that the ICE 50BC did make a very nice ice cream, and in well under 40 minutes. A brushed stainless-steel box with no frilly-silly add-ons, the machine is also beautifully designed.

Ease of Use: 7.5
Time to Completion: 4
Elegance: 9
Final Product: Philly, 9; French, 8
Total Philly: 29.5
Total French: 28.5

Musso 4080 Lussino Dessert Maker
$594.95 on Amazon.com

If you're truly serious about making, and perfecting, a custard-style ice cream, I highly recommend shelling out the extra bucks for a Musso. If forced to come up with a downside, besides the price ... well, the Musso's bowl is not removable, so cleaning is a small hassle. And make sure you have the counter space: It is heavier and larger than the Lello or Cuisinart. Otherwise, this is a gem. The entire device, down to the bowl and paddle, is stainless steel; and the Musso's motor whips considerably more air into the batter than others. The freezer is more powerful, so in 20 to 25 minutes, you have a fluffy, soft-serve ice cream. About two hours later, after sitting in your freezer: Sublime! The final product, even with a crude, Philly-style batter, was exponentially better than that of any other machine, to a degree that amazed tasters. If you want to create top-notch ice cream, this is your dream appliance. No competition.

Ease of Use: 8
Time to Completion: 9
Elegance: 9.5
Final Product: Philly, 9.5; French, 9.5
Total Philly: 36
Total French: 36



Blacks Don’t Have a Corporal Punishment Problem

Americans do. But when blacks exhibit the same behaviors as others, it becomes part of a greater black pathology. 

I Bought the Huge iPhone. I’m Already Thinking of Returning It.

Scotland Is Just the Beginning. Expect More Political Earthquakes in Europe.

Lifetime Didn’t Think the Steubenville Rape Case Was Dramatic Enough

So they added a little self-immolation.

Two Damn Good, Very Different Movies About Soldiers Returning From War

Medical Examiner

The Most Terrifying Thing About Ebola 

The disease threatens humanity by preying on humanity.

Students Aren’t Going to College Football Games as Much Anymore, and Schools Are Getting Worried

The Good Wife Is Cynical, Thrilling, and Grown-Up. It’s Also TV’s Best Drama.

  News & Politics
Sept. 19 2014 9:15 PM Chris Christie, Better Than Ever
Sept. 19 2014 6:35 PM Pabst Blue Ribbon is Being Sold to the Russians, Was So Over Anyway
Inside Higher Ed
Sept. 19 2014 1:34 PM Empty Seats, Fewer Donors? College football isn’t attracting the audience it used to.
  Double X
The XX Factor
Sept. 19 2014 4:58 PM Steubenville Gets the Lifetime Treatment (And a Cheerleader Erupts Into Flames)
  Slate Plus
Slate Picks
Sept. 19 2014 12:00 PM What Happened at Slate This Week? The Slatest editor tells us to read well-informed skepticism, media criticism, and more.
Brow Beat
Sept. 19 2014 4:48 PM You Should Be Listening to Sbtrkt
Future Tense
Sept. 19 2014 6:31 PM The One Big Problem With the Enormous New iPhone
  Health & Science
Medical Examiner
Sept. 19 2014 5:09 PM Did America Get Fat by Drinking Diet Soda?   A high-profile study points the finger at artificial sweeteners.
Sports Nut
Sept. 18 2014 11:42 AM Grandmaster Clash One of the most amazing feats in chess history just happened, and no one noticed.