Kicking Up a Stink
On eating cheese in China.
Much as I love cheese myself, by the end of the meal I was beginning to understand why a Shaoxing local might turn up her nose at Brie, while enjoying the stinking beancurd that perfumes entire neighbourhoods. I was, however, fascinated by how well the mellow tastes of Shaoxing's amber-coloured wines matched the local stinking delicacies, a marriage as perfect as port and Stilton. The next tasting, perhaps, should be a gathering of European oenophiles around a table of Shaoxing wines and cheese.
This article originally appeared in Financial Times. Click here to read more coverage from the Weekend FT.
Fuchsia Dunlop is the author of Shark's Fin & Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China.
Photograph by Creatas Images/Thinkstock.