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Vegetarian Sausage

Which imitation pig-scrap-product is best?

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Alone among the un-sausages we tried, the Field Roast contains no soy; it's wheat-gluten based. Perhaps that made the difference. (I've noticed that, at vegetarian restaurants, I often prefer the chewy, stringy texture of seitan to tofu.) In addition to fennel, we detected garlic and salt and a slight tang, maybe a result of red wine, which comes fourth on the ingredient list right after expeller-pressed safflower oil.

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No one could mistake Field Roast's version of Italian sausage for an actual Italian sausage, but it came closest to satisfying my crazy, weird craving to taste what I've forsworn.

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Juliet Lapidos is a former Slate associate editor.