Food writers can't stop bragging about their meals at the famous Spanish restaurant El Bulli.

I'll close with a note to journalists eager to publish an IAAEBP before El Bulli shuts its doors: Unless you can get Adria to button you into a bib, deconstruct and foam-ify some sweet potatoes, and spoon feed them to you himself while making airplane zooming noises, your account will not surprise me, and will not satisfy me. I've read piece after piece and am still unfulfilled; the words, I fear, were all just so much foam.

Correction, April 15, 2011: The piece originally misstated the percentage of diners who were successful in their attempt to get a reservation at El Bulli.  Return to the corrected sentence. It also referred to nitrous oxides as noxious oxides, which may have been a Freudian slip on the part of the author, but is not strictly correct. Return to the corrected sentence.