The new GourmetCookbook.

What to eat. What not to eat.
Sept. 29 2004 8:19 AM

How Frugal Is Gourmet?

A practical new cookbook from the famously extravagant magazine.

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Of course, it's still Gourmet, and excessive zeal is part of the franchise. These editors are no more willing than MacAusland was to be mistaken for Betty Crocker. Hence the three-hour Seafood Paella, the four-hour Dobostorte, and the cassoulet recipe so elaborate they're forced to call it "a two-day adventure." But the Gourmet Cookbook is no wish book. It's too American for that. Frozen puff pastry is used without apology, there's a Mexican quiche from Montana, and many of the recipes originated with readers—some of them actually housewives. "The art of being a gourmet has nothing to do with age, money, fame, or country," MacAusland proclaimed in the first issue of the magazine. I doubt he believed it back then—but he'd have to now.