Great, cheap reds from Italy's Piedmont region.

Feb. 24 2006 1:03 PM

Gold, Silver, Bronze—and Red

Great, cheap wines from Italy's Piedmont region.

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Corino Barbera d'Alba 2004, $18
A charming wine by another of the modernists, with a terrific herb-infused bouquet. It's a slightly leaner Barbera, but the fruit is pleasingly tart, the acidity assertive but not aggressively so, and the combination of the two leaves the palate craving pizza, pasta, or something else simple and Italian.