Cave Spring Cellars Reserve Riesling 2004, $14.99 (Ontario) The bouquet takes a little while to uncoil, but once it does, it offers up apples, acacia flowers, spearmint, and a hint of petroleum. Crisp and clean in the mouth, with mellow lemon-lime flavors, good acidity, and just a touch of spritz.
Jackson-Triggs Meritage 2002, $25 (British Columbia) An appealing nose of red currants, licorice, wood, and vanilla. A mouth-filling but simple wine, with pleasant cranberry flavors and a nice spicy edge. If only the tannins weren't quite so punishing.