Shark's fin soup, China, and the GDP: Why protecting sharks is good for the economy.

News and commentary about environmental issues.
June 30 2011 7:28 AM

Sharkonomics

What's good for sharks is good for the economy.

1_123125_2170587_2278657_2296853_promoimage

Which is better for sharks, communism or capitalism?

You have probably not given a moment's thought to how ideological leanings affect the creatures that have swum in our oceans for nearly 400 million years. But it turns out that the transition between economic systems—from barter economies and feudal ones, to communism and capitalism—has had profound impacts on great whites, whale sharks, and a host of other sharks.

The state of the Chinese economy didn't really matter to sharks until a thousand years ago. (That's a blip in time, from the sharks' perspective, given that they emerged during the Devonian period.) During the Sung Dynasty, between 960 and 1279, a small group of elites began consuming noodles made from the cartilage in sharks' fins, a dish known as shark's fin soup. The dish gained popularity during the Ming Dynasty in the 15th century, when a Chinese admiral named Cheng Ho traveled to Africa and brought back fins that African villagers discarded in favor of the meat. Shark's fin soup became a standard offering in formal banquets during the Ming Dynasty.

But after Mao brought the Chinese Communist Party to power in 1949, shark's fin soup fell out of favor. As a delicacy enjoyed by elites, it became politically toxic during the Cultural Revolution. "Although it was never outlawed, it was frowned upon," is the way Susie Watts, an adviser to the Humane Society International based in Britain, puts it.

Advertisement

That began to change in the late 1980s, when Deng Xiaoping instituted his market reforms. The economic changes spawned a new upper and middle class in China, and members of both groups sought ways to display their wealth. Buying art (including pieces produced by Deng's daughter) was one way; eating shark's fin soup was another.

"It was politically rehabilitated," Watts explains. "Consuming it gave them a sense of being part of the new aristocracy in China."

As China's economic power has grown, so, too, has the targeting of sharks worldwide. According to scientists, between 26 and 73 million sharks are killed every year for their fins, which sell for 100 times the cost of shark meat. It is a required item at almost any wedding banquet or important business meal in China.

And as with so many products in capitalist society, it's gone downscale as it's proliferated. It's no longer just a fancy soup: There's shark's fin sushi and a pillowy white cake in Japan made from sharks known as hanpen; spiny dogfish sharks are made into fish and chips for British consumers; and shark's fin cat food is even sold in some markets.

Last week, a group of ocean scientists released a report concluding that the sea is in much worse shape than previously thought. Noting that we are now observing the kinds of disruptions "associated with each of the previous five mass extinctions on Earth," the report's authors warn that we need to reassess the way we use the ocean to meet our financial needs and desires. "It is clear that the traditional economic and consumer values that formerly served society well, when coupled with current rates of population increase, are not sustainable," they write.

Perhaps Mao was on to something. It may be that community-oriented property laws provide a better model for how to treat the sea. Several island cultures operate on the principle that tribes own the rights to coral reefs off their coasts. As I write in my new book, Demon Fish: Travels Through the Hidden World of Sharks *, this has allowed the villagers of Selpele and Salio in Indonesian Papua to create marine reserves that harbor sharks as well as a stunning array of other species. Palau's president Johnson Toribiong invoked this tradition when he created the world's first shark sanctuary in 2009. Toribiong explained he was imposing the same sort of "bul"—a prohibition on exploiting natural resources—that Palau's tribal chiefs imposed in ancient times.