The Playboy competitor True tried to fight the same battle from within the confines of marriage, with the editor saying at the time that his magazine "stimulates the masculine ego at a time when man wants to fight back against women's efforts to usurp his traditional role as head of the family."
One could argue that man's role as head of the family has never been more endangered than it is today. Where in the Playboy era men had been forced out of the home, now they've been forced back in, thanks in no small part to the "mancession" that's left them disproportionately out of work, with women poised to outnumber them in the workforce.
By masculinizing cooking, those men who make a hobby of it are not diminished by having to do it. It gives them an arena to practice it with other men. And maybe it gives them a way to beat women at their own game.